Due to my current obsession with light colours, the collections in Milan didn’t really translate very well to my envisioning of the winter season, after such a beautiful array of light, airy and futuristic garments at the S/S The futures futurism was still there, just maybe not in such a varied form- references to the black and white film ‘Metropolis’ of the beautiful and crazy Maria were all over the catwalks. Maybe that is why the farewell collection of Raf Simons was so dear to my heart….?
One of the beautiful things was that this time, the designer took inspiration from things already deemed by the society as wrong, such as socialist ideas. Yet in this case, the typical forms- thick, strong limbed and defined similarly to stone sculptures were made more graceful by the combined influences of the American Hollywood in the 1950’s and a clear minimalist modern look, mainly described by the multi-textured shoes on a high stiletto.
The clothes were clear cut, without any fussy detailing or edges, made as simple as possible- focusing mostly on ankles, knees and collarbones, the clothes exposed the most delicate parts of the woman’s body. A beautiful gesture for the departing designer- the women gently holding together their two colored, woolen coats over pink silk flowing over their hips and thighs. Reminiscent of gentle lovers leaving in the early hours of the morning, the collection truly felt timeless- suited both for winter and spring, continuing a certain look for the most relaxed part of the day.
Raf Simons also wanted to be remembered for not just the muted and the cold shades- the mainly pink dresses played a beautiful role in accentuating gentle flushes of the cheeks and the perfect saturated dark pink. He strayed into the blacks and beiges of the typical Jil Sander outerwear, but shone out with one bright red creation. Gentle gestures and soft thin wools made the collection very light for a winter collection, and I think that was what personally made it stand out for me. Even with the clear minimalist influences which I usually don’t like, the collection of pink, elegant softness was definitely touching, especially for such a sad departure…